Srirangapatna, a legacy of TIPU SULTAN

Shrirangapattana is an ideal one day picnic getway from Blore. It is located on the old Mysore highway approximately 120 kms from Blore. One has to travel via Bidadi, Sholay’s Ramanagaram, Chennapatna, Maddur, Mandya and reach this place. The drive on the two laned highway is beautiful, but can be perilous for those who overspeed, many a accidents have occurred due to intermittent U turns in the middle and lorries swerving to the right due to bullock carts blocking their pathway in the morning and evening times. The road too tends to skid due to fine sand particles which are deposits from sand quarrying trucks from Mandya, which is the real downer.

The ideal breakfast halts are Ramnagaram Lokruchi Kamat, Maddur tiffin house, Amravathi Mandya, Sree Devi Mandya, and many more joints including Kadu mane which is before Bidaddi. Our favourite dinner spot is Shivu’s Dabba in Ramnagaram and a new Taj hotel has come up in Ramnagaram, which is not to be mistaken for the famous Taj group of 5 star hotels.

Historical legacy :

The real architects of Srirangapattna were rulers from the Nagamangal feudatories of the Vijaynagar Empire. Thimmanna Hebbar who under the patronage of Vijaynagar Emperor Devaraya II commissioned the construction of a mud fort in 1454 AD. In 1610 AD the wodeyars ( Kanteerava Narasaraja Wodeyar ) shifted their capital to Srirangapatna, who were instruemental in fortifying the citadel in 1654 AD.



Hyder Ali became a defacto ruler of Srirangapatna in 1761 dislodging the sovereignty of weak wodeyars. Tipu Sultan succeeded his father in 1782 and gained command over the region till he succumbed to the British in the IV anglo-mysore war in 1799.

Tipu Sultan utilised the services of the French architects to reconstruct the Fort in keeping with the Gun powder technology of war fare. The Fort walls were built with granite stones and with may gateways on the boundary of the river cauvery. The prominent gateways were Delhi gate, Bangalore gateways, Krishna gateway or Jibi gateway near the krishna temple.

Srirangapatna has been inhabited from ancient times with neolithic mankind flourishing due to abundance of water from the Cauvery basin. The migratory birds have found an idealyic habitat at Rangantitu which is now converted to a bird sanctuary by the govt of Karnataka.

Ranganatha Swamy Temple :

An inscription dated 894 AD mentions Thirumalaiah, the Ganga dynasty chieftain was instruemental in construction of this massive temple. The Hoysala king Veera Ballal in 1200 AD made grants for maintainence of the temple. This was a centre of traditional learning for priesthood, which was sponsored by Hoysala and Vijaynagar kings. The temple has seen successive renovations under various rulers who ruled the area.

A myth is associated in the form of Sage Gautama performing a penance ivoking Mahavishnu to bless this region with his presence. The serenity of the surrounding seems to have lead to the belief that Lord Vishnu appeared before him in the reclining posture known as Sheshashayi.

The huge statue of Lord Ranganatha in reclining posture on the coiled serpant with its hood raised is a magnificient sight. The lord is served by goddess Kaveria and sage Gautama. The temple has association to sage Ramunajacharaya and Deshikacharya who all belonged to the Vijaynagar era.

The figures of Lord Vishnu is embedded on the pillars in the courtyard, there are nearly twenty four forms when compared to the traditional Dashavataram. The main gopuram is in the typical Vijaynagar style which may have been commissioned by Deva Raya II ( 1424-1446 AD)

The enterance has the Gaurda pillar, which is now known as Patalankana which was commissioned by Hyder Ali. One will find a big temple chariot outside the temple premise. In one of the corners of the pavilion housing the chariot there are stone rings embedded in one corner outlining the skills of the artisans of the time, which is a tourist attraction.

Ranganatha swamy overshadows all other temples which are located nearby. At least 3 other temples which are in various state of neglect due to the absence of tourists visiting them. One of them must have used as a school for upcoming priests in olden days. Foreigners love to visit this temple which is unfrettered by artificial barriers. Guides throng the premise for dishing out historical, mystical and fanciful stories which may be amusing sometimes. It would be greek and latin to foreigners. Some guides do manage to speak English with aplomb. How much would you pay for the guide services is better to be bargained at the beginning rather than haggling in the end and cutting a sorry figure.

JUMMA MASJID :

As one enters the fort premises the first monument in sight is Jumma Masjid. This was constructed by Tipu Sultan in 1787 AD. The Masjid is adorned by two majestic minars on the corner of the Masjid edifice. There is pond for washing the feet in the premise. The Islamic archway is combined with beautiful floral designs on the ceiling of the Masjid which is two storeyed. The inscriptions on the walls contain extracts of Koranic verses. The minar is generally closed for public which has 200 steps to reach the balcony. Currently the premise is used as a madarasa to teach the younger generations. There is no enterance fee for this Masjid.

DARUA DAULAT BAGH :

When the wealth of the vanquished can sponsor the construction of a palace why not build a beautiful one. The Daria daulat bagh was built in commemoration of the victories of Tipu Sultan in the Konkan region. Daria Daulat is literally translated as Wealth of the Sea. The monument is built in classic fashion with landscape in plenty which may be precursor to the Lal Bagh in Bangalore. The palace is constructed mostly with Teak Wood. It is single storied rectangular shaped structure built on raised platform. This palace was considered to be summer palace for Tipu.

A mezzanine portion of the palace has two staircase which is built in a darbar fashion. The ceilings are beautifully painted in floral and geometic designs which are rich in colour and vibrancy. The western walls adorn with paintings of battle scene wherein Hyder Ali is shown riding an elephant. The second painting shows Tipu sultan along with French platoon on the battlefield. The third painting shows the victorious scenes in the battle of Poliluru. The fourth painting displays the Nizam army arriving late in aid of British. After the death of Tipu sultan the British general Arthur Wellesley occupied the palace from 1799 to 1804.

Museum : Currently the Daria Daulat Bagh houses a museum, which is on the ground floor which exhibits paintings, sketches,coins, medallions, costumes, furniture, arms and ammunition etc used by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. The british wanted to seen as heroes in the battle with their paintings adorning the palace. The storming of Srirangapatana an oil painting was commissioned and Robert Ker Porter executed it in 1800 AD. This was historical painting along with Robert Home painting depicting the capture of Tiups sons Abdul Khaliqu and Maiuddin along with Ghulam Ali Khan the trusted Vakil of Tipu are on display.

Tipu seems to have renovated a number of Forts and built many at Strategic locations. Many are displayed on the walls of the palace in Pencil sketches. Some of the Forts I have not been able to personally decipher. Maybe liesurely I will make a visit to jot down the details. Jamalabad, Manjarabad, are typical forts which signifies Tipu’s contribution.



The eco-friendly feature of the palace is the huge landscaped garden with maintained grass turfs. There are huge trees adorning the centre of the gardens with boundaries too filled with trees. It would have also been an ideal setting for the king to throw Dawat parties to the royal entrouge during the times of Id celeberations.

GUMBAZ :

A gumbaz or Mausoleum was commissioned by Tipu sultan in honour of his parents between 1782-84 AD. It became a resting place for Tipu too after his death on 5th May 1799 AD. There are number of other tombs which may be of the nobles connected with the Tipu Sultan family. The Gombuz edifice is elegant built in the Islamic architecture. An ornamented doors adorn the mauslem. A Mosque too built in the complex for those who want to pray for the departed soul and Allah.

TIPU s Death Plaque :

A small memorial is built on to the eastern boundary of the fort, where Tipu was felled by a bullet in the battle of Anglo-Mysore on the 4th May 1799. Tipu was valliantly trying to ward of the intruders issuing order to the soldier to fire the cannons and Tipu rockets on the enemy positions. He tried to cover the sieze by jumping over the water gate. The gateway was sealed by the advancing enemy, which seems to be treachery of sorts. Tipu was betrayed by his own commander Sadiq. Tipu thus was cornered by advancing army and was wounded among the heap of soldiers. His body was found among the heap of soldiers. He thus lived by the sword and perished by the same. A simple memorial symbolises the greatness of Tipu who died fighting the British.

Malabar Dungeons : A huge Dungeon was commissioned to imprison the British soldiers who were defeated in the first two wars. The dungeons were later used to imprison the war prisoners. There was a cannon firing point which was used as a surprise during enemy attack.

Baileys Dungeon : This dungeon was used to imprison High ranking officers and royalty from the Maratha empire. This is known as Thomas Immam’s Dungeon which was discovered in 1895 AD. There are two Cannons inside the dungeon which is strange occurance, one cannon seems to have fallen into the building while construction and so it was retained there itself. Other cannon must have been provided for as an artistic feature to complete the architecture of a royal prison.

TIPU’s PALACE :

This palace was originally belonging the Wodeyars which seem to have been renovated to be known as Lal Mahal. The visitors sing lavish praise on the construction and its interior designing. One such visitor Mr Francis Buchanan visited Srirangapatana in 1800 AD, which was after the death of Tipu Sultan left a glowing account.

It is mentioned that the verses of Koran were painted in gold, with tiger stripes adorning the walls, with zenana for the queens to bathe and live. The palace seemed to contain a mezanine floor too housing the king. It is obvious that all the wealth of the palace was systematically looted and taken into the personal possession of the invaders and conspirators.

Wodeyars Museum :

The small museum is located next to the demolished palace of Tipu Sultan. It houses a number of beautiful sculptures and artifacts belonging the Ganga dynasty. Visitors can visit and enjoy the collections of the Wodeyar family. The exhibition guard will act as a guide if one is interested.

The death of  Tipu Sultan signifies the end of  Indian resistance against the British Empire which was only plausible due to betrayal of the Nizams and Marathas.  Tipu even though seen as a villian in coversion by Hindus and vandaliser of Churches will be remembered for upgrading the technology of warfare with his missile type rocket bomb  quote u.k.derebail

Karkala, abode of Bahubali

It is located hardly 40 kms from my mils place in Karnad. A direct road connects via Moodbidri to Karkala, enroute one comes across the church of Attur. One gets to pass via the Soans farm in Belvai, Moodbidri too. This farm is built on eco tourism concept. The details of Soans farm can be obtained from the following link : http://www.moodabidri.com/soans/index.html

History : This region was ruled by the Alupa king and Kadambas in ancient times. The local feudatories known as Bhairarasa Odeyas, who owed their allegiance to Hoysalas. Later they followed the patronage of Vijaynagar. Their kingdom extended from Sringeri, Koppa, Balehonnur and Mudigere. The first king Veera Bhairava constructed a number of Basadis at Karkala. A lake known as Ramsamudra was constructed in honour of his second son who died early.

King Veera Pandya commissioned the construction of Bahubali statue on the rocky hill of Karkala. He thus fulfilled the wish of his Guru Lalitakeerti, who was the pontiff of the Jain Mutt. The statue was consecrated to public on 13th February 1432 AD. The Brahma deva pillar was installed in 1436 AD.

The Bahubali statue is built out of monolithic granite raising upto 42 feet in height. One has to climb nearly 400 steps to reach the pinnacle. There is a steel railing installed for support, one can park their vehicles below the hillock. Once in every 12 years Mahamastabisheka is performed when the Lord is bathed in milk, honey, sandalwood, ghee and other anointments.

Chatarmukha Basadi : This basadi was dedicated to the Jain teertankaras and completed in 1586 AD. There are 4 teertankaras located in four directions and the sanctum sanitarium contains the Bahabuli. The construction is undertaken with prevention heavy rain in mind. An arrogant priest with a black specs take care of the basadi, please don t enter with an argument with him.


1000 Pillared Basadi : This basadi was built in 1431 AD according to a stone inscriptions found in the temple premise. It was built by the strong jain community and patronized by Devaraja Wodeyar of Nagamangala. The innumerable pillars add to the temples beauty. Photography is prohibited by the staff, but if one gives a donation to the temple than one is allowed to photograph. Please do not take the trouble of counting the pillars you can hardly find 200 pillars.

Chauta Palace : A wooden palace is located in Moodbidri on the premise of which a kannada film on sale of heritage was filmed. The palace was supposed to have a huge fort boundary which is in various stages of ruin. The palace has a watch tower and it is generally locked, one has to enquire for the caretakers to have a view, which cute structure. The palace is shrouded in mystery with alleged curse of the devi, which bought their downfall. One of the noble belong to the Chauta family Veeravarman was killed. The governance of the rulers came under cloud and the villagers seem to have boycotted the royalty. Earlier to 1855 AD the kings used to visit the local festivity such as kambala, football matches being the chief guest. They used to visit the temple and pay their respects to the devi.

Vanishing Beaches and coastline

Baywatchers will become extinct breed of professionals who are meant to rescue the drowing tourists or swimmers. The increasing trend of receeding shore line of beach sand dunes will drive away tourists from most of the destination including Goa, Puri, Fort Kochi, Bekal, etc.

A huge managenese & iron ore transporting ship River Princes grounded on the shores of Goa is blamed to have caused erosion of beaches, by interfering in the continental drift and sand movement patterns on calangute and anjuna beaches, including Fort Aguada beach. The ship which belongs to powerful mangnate Salgoankars have gone to court to stay any attempt to remove the ship from its temporary berth. Just imagine a 787 feet ship beached ironically off the north Goa sea coast in June 2000 can wreck such havoc on the shoreline of Goa.

Enviromentalists are predicting further disaster on T.N, Orissa and Andhra belt with huge exploitation of coastal zones. The number of Ports being commissioned in orissa is astounding nos, which is a blatant disregard for the bays. Erosion by itself would not been a matter of concern but for its harmful effects. It is predicted that coastal land will be innudated by salt water, rendering land non cultivatable. The ground water could become salty if the sand dune cover is eroded.

Paulose, Mazhar, Azam and myself are living proof of savouring good drinking water in the middle of Marina beach. The water scooped out of the rich sand dune was surprisingly potable and an unique experience. This conclusive proves the importance of sand dune cover on the beaches.

Tourism will take a major hit if the sand dunes start vanishing from the Shoreline. Goa has been depending on the tourism for employment and revenue. A comprehensive study on the sand mining on the banks of river for construction can be another major cause for disappearing Sand dunes. Increased construction of resorts, construction of roads on the shoreline, Increased dumping of sewage, Shipping activity near the ports, Dredging, etc have all wrecked havoc.

I shudder the day when the virgin beaches of Konkan coast will vanish, the only way to save these shore lines is to undertake a scientific study to stop the erosion. An urgent need is felt after an NDTV report on vanishing coastline of India. Will there be seperate ministry be empowered to look into the matter.

If we fail to resurrect the coastline with more mangroves and other protective barriers, the future generation will be tormented without any beach for entertainment. Bikni clad sun tanners too might become extinct breed along with turtles.

Karwar & Sadashivghad Travelouge

The landscape of Karwar forms a natural harbour without much of rocky surface which is dangerous for sailing ships. The scenic beauty around the Kali river and Sadashivghad prompted Rabindranath Tagore to write his first treatise on Nature’s revenge :

Here in Karwar I wrote the Prakritir Pratishodha, Nature's Revenge, a dramatic poem. The hero was a Sanyasi (hermit) who had been striving to gain a victory over Nature by cutting away the bonds of all desires and affections and thus to arrive at a true and profound knowledge of self.

Rabindranath tagore described Karwar in utmost eloquence in Chapter 37 of his memoirs

The sea beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of Nature is not a mirage of the imagination, but reflects the joy of the Infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves in it. Where the universe is expressing itself in the magic of its laws it may not be strange if we miss its infinitude; but where the heart gets into immediate touch with immensity in the beauty of the meanest of things, is any room left for argument?

No wonder Karwar served as an important trading port during the Vijaynagar empire, later under the Bahmani’s, Portuguese and the British empire. Currently it is being developed as the biggest Naval base in India under the camouflaged umbrella.

Karwar is blessed with a decent port town from where the mines are exported in plenty from Goa and pockets of Karnataka. The beach is being developed with landscaping and Naval museum, Toy train, and acquarium.

Naval Museum : The INS Chapel, which took an important part in the Indo-pak war in 1971, which destroyed the Karachi harbour beyond recognition, which lead to Pakistan surrendering has been decommissioned in 2005. Thereafter in lieu of the naval base it has been converted as Naval museum, with entry ticket of Rs 15 per head. The timings of the museum is between 10 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm. The video presentation on the big screen inside the warship is quite informative and should not be missed. The mannequins of the captain, crew are so real that one gets astounded by their finesse. The deck scenario is quite reminiscent of Titanic, may be a photoshop can create the effect, just try it. The torpedoes and missiles too on display. The highlight is the engine room and cabin room of this banana split war ship which wrecked havoc in the enemy camps.

Acquarium : For a nominal entry fee of Rs 3/- one gets to witness the unique verities of acqua species. The highlight being sting rays, sea snakes, in this museum. How we wish that a fish canteen is opened for tourists to enjoy.
Toy Train : A nice round trip can be had on the toy train around the museum and pine trees on the Karwar beach. We did not find it operating due to heavy downpour. The ride costs Rs 10/- per head. The timings of the ride are same as the museum.

Karwar Beach : A garden on one end, which is still to be completed. An old arched building for view point is battered due to the inclement weather. One can have a lovely view of the Karwar port, the horizons of the beach and fishermen folks. This is the ideal videography or photographic point in the entire beach. During the night times there almost a juhu chowpatty type of scenario on the beach front with pani poori stalls.



Sadashivghad Fort : Situated on the northern banks of the kali river Sadashivghad Fort served as a strategic point for the kings of the land, which acted as a watch tower. Originally there was a mud fort under the vijayanagar rulers, which was captured and destroyed by the Portuguese in 1510. Then under the tutlege of the pepper queen in 1552 the Fort seems to have been resurrected and served as her empires boundary till 1606. Shivaji Maharaj conquered the fort on 21st Feb 1665. Shivaji installed the Durga Devi temple, which was later converted into Shantadurga temple by the Bhandari community. The full scale fort was than rebuilt by Basavalingaraj in memory of his father Sadashivlingaraj in 1715. The fort was captured by Tipu Sultan in 1793 and was under his reign till 1799. Originally the fort was on huge hillock which has been now sliced to form a road and bridge across the river Kali for people to commute from Karnataka to Goa. The fort seems to have been pulled down by the British in 1883 by General Mathews for creating the access by road to Goa and it served as a strategic border of the territory of the Portuguese and the British. The british took guard for nearly 150 years over this strategic point to protect their interest against the Portuguese.



Currently Sadshivghad fort is being used as Estuary lodge under lease to a private outfit under the jungle lodge & resorts. There is one modern building for lodging with a restaurant overseeing the kali river, devbagh beach and the Arabian sea. The sunset can be beautifully viewed against the backdrop of the beach. The food order can take upto 1 hour, so better to order for the same and than have a good look at the landscape which seems to have been rebuilt with stone horse, carvings of dance postures, and cannon built in laterite stone. The rate quoted is 3600 for a couple with all 3 times meals taken care of.

Dargah :On the other side of the Sadashivghad fort is the Dargah dedicated to Hazarath Sayed Shah Shamsuddin. This dargah seems to have been built in the 17th century under the patronage Bahamani sultans and later by Tipu sultan. It attracts lot of pilgrims.

Temple : A durga temple was renovated & built under the patronage of Chatrapathi Shivaji in 1665. The current temple was renovated and built by the Bhandari community in 1928, who had the reputation of being sailors. However the ancient charm is maintained by the cannons of Shivaji Maharaj and Tipu Sultan on the staircase leading upto the temple. The irony is that cannons are pointed in the direction of the river bank of kali and its township. The heritage value of the temple is lost to a large extent, with whitwashed paintings.

Devbagh Beach Resort : This is run by Jungle Lodge and resorts with a steep tariff starting from Rs 2500/- per pax with AP. This isle resort is an exclusive spot which has water sports, houseboats, dolphin beaches and golden sandy beaches. One can enjoy nature with river and beach to the hilt.

Belum Cave, an underground experience

Belum cave is located in the dry and arid zone of Ananthpur district, lot of cuddapah stones are mined in the nearby area, with a huge cement plant too located in the vicinity.

These caves were inhabited in the ancient times by Buddhists and Jain monks, many of the relics discovered during the restoration process is housed in the museum located at Ananthpur town. It may have been dwelling of cavemen dating back to 4500 B.C., the potteries and beads discovered by ASI points to this fact.

Logistics : The Belum cave is approximately 272 kms from Blore via NH 7 with a deviation from Ananthpur town via Tadpatri town. There is no proper accommodation in Belum cave except for dormitory facility. The ideal place to book one’s accommodation is either at Ananthpur town or at Tadipatri town. The next alternative if one is traveling from Hyderabad 320 is take up accommodation at Kurnool or alternatively at Yaganti.

Belum cave is considered to be longest caves on the plains with 3229 meters and 120 feet depth, and second longest cave in India. Some of the longest caves are located in Meghalaya, Mizoram and Manipur belt. Majority of them are still raw and unexplored to a large extent due to thick forest cover.

Discovery & Mapping of Belum caves was officially undertaken by Robert Bruce Foote in 1884 AD. It remained under total neglect with the mining lobby dumping ground for all the waste in and around the area. A German team headed by Herbert Daniel Gabauer in 1982 and 1983 conducted a detailed mapping of the cave along with local reddies Chalpatti, Ramswami, Padmanabiah and Chinnaih.

APTDC : The Andhra govt. finally decided to step in and develop Belum caves as a tourist destinations in 1999. With a massive budget of 7.5 crores work began in the right earnest to ensure cleaning, lighting, ventilating, blowers, railings etc were installed at all strategic points. Belum caves were thrown open to public in 2003. There is a canteen for tourist, bathroom facility near the entry point. The guides who are available with torch to guide the tourist into the caves. We were lucky to get a free guide deployed, one of course has to tip them for their efficiency in guiding quickly and ensure that we emerge out of the cave safely. There are helmets available which is generally not used by the tourists.




A huge Buddha statue has been installed close to the hillock near the enterance to signify the original inhabitants of the Belum caves. On the hillock BELUM is engraved like Hollywood insignia.

Sections of Belum Cave :

Dhyan Mandir or Meditation centre : It is located near the enterance. A huge hall almost looks like a bedroom with a pillow on the horizon. Most of the Buddhist monks and sages resided in this portion and meditated. All the artifacts found in this portion have been relocated to the museum.

1000 Hoods : The stalactite formation on the wall looks like a cobra hoods, just imagine number of cobras opening their hood to strike, a scary scenario, but it is just a figment of imagination of the locals to describe the scenario being displayed.

Banyan Tree Hall : This section resembles a huge banyan tree spreading its roots and branches all over.

Mandapam : This huge stalactite hall looks like a marriage hall. Who knows marriages may take place in future……….for a movie Lol.

Musical chamber : The stalactite pillar formation give out musical notes when stuck with a wooden cane or once knuckles.

Patalganga : A perennial stream of water flows into the Belum village located 2 km away from this spot.



Overall a visit to Belum cave can be quite a thrilling experience, it is generally opened between 9 am to 5 pm. One has to be prepared for visiting the cave with plenty of water, and take due care while passing through some narrow passage. In certain areas one is bound to feel clausterphobic, but not very scary since the lighting is quite sufficient. There are ventilators and blowers at strategic points, it is better to take a breather under them and proceed further. Since the best of the caves are located in the explored spots, Belum cave is the best experience one can have underground. The sheer adventure and aura to experience an underground exploration is fulfilled at Belum.

52 Weekend breaks from Bangalore

Outlook traveller has been published by the media barons from Bengal. A well edited 510 pages 52 weekends from Bangalore is a must for all the travel buffs. A first hand travel experience of well travelled professionals, along with professional photos from various angles is the beauty of this compilation.

Of course the enroute destinations have been deliberately given a miss for example on the route to return to Bangalore from Karkala, one can come across, Sringeri, Hummangudi water falls, Hornadu, Kudremukh & Belur. These destinations could have been highlighted but maybe fun of discovery may be taken off. The intentions may be noble.

There are other destinations which are given a miss since the concept maybe to cover destinations for 52 weeks only. The other recommended destinations are located in Kolar district, Chitradurga district, Uttar Kanara district, Bidar district and Bagalkot districts.

One or two photographs shot from an angle is excellent, one of the taxi drivers posing on the NH 47 highway, on Marvanthe beach gives the panaromic outlook of the beach and the river. Another photograph is of the shiva statue shot from the Murudeswar beach, which covers the beach, the town, the hillock and the huge monolith Shiva statue.

My classmate MAHESH DATTANI, a Josephite too has contributed to review in this book which makes it all the more exciting. For those who of you are aware of the theatre field, he is a well known personality originating from Bangalore. Now he is busy directing plays, serials, tv interviews, etc. Of course it is a mystery why he still considered to be single and ready to mingle ? Pun intended.

Now it is better to get hold of this book from Reliance digital stores or cunnigham road The book is also available in leading bookstores, which costs Rs 225.

Holiday package

My recent LTC trip with Air India to NE was a mixed bag of joy and sorrow. We opted for Air-India LTC travel package since we were informed the Jet Airways was not authorized to take passengers to Nathula pass being a private operator. The total holiday package of Resplendent B package was quoted @ 57212.50 per pax. This included flight tickets, sight seeing, accommodation and airport transfers.

The total package consisted of 8 nights and 9 days covering Kolkatta, Gangtok, Darjeeling, Shillong and Gauhati. We were asked to deposit a sum of Rs 10,750 as a security deposit. I just got a mild shock, I asked the incharge, why is it so ? I was given a reply that in the event of cancellation this money will be forfeited. This triggered my antenna to be cautious. I deposited the amount with the counter, they said they will call me back after confirming hotel bookings. ( I was laughing internally in an off season they are bidding time for hotel booking ) Next day a lady called and said congratulation sir, we have all your bookings confirmed. I said hold on dear let me check the hotel reviews. Suddenly I found hotel in Kolkatta, Shillong and Gauhati not upto the mark. I requested for a change. In fact I called up directly and confirmed with hotels regarding the availability of the rooms. So reluctantly I was offered hotels of my choice in Kolkatta ( De Empressa ) and Shillong ( Tripura Castle ). Gauhati they skipped. I too let it go since it was last leg of my tour ( Rudali Residency).

I was very badly let down by the tour operator East wind holidays in skipping Nathula pass. Even in Kolkatta there was no sight seeing arranged, we had to pay from our pocket to find most of the tourist places close on monday. No guidance at all. . I had to literally blow my fuse to get enroute sightseeing visit to Kalimpong. Rumtek monastery enroute to Gangtok was skipped. All the feed back regarding the mess up by the tour operator was registered in writing, less said the better. Two days buffet breakfast was skipped at Darjeeling ( Krishna Residency ) and Gauhati ( Rudali residency ) It is better to reconfirm regarding buffet breakfast offered by the hotels. Most of them offer only limited breakfast as a courtsey unless one insists.


On the last day of the tour we were to board the IC flight from Gauhati to Kolkatta, but flights were re-scheduled and tour operator did not bother to even inform us, regarding 3 days of cancellation. We would have used that time for sight seeing in Gauhati at our cost obviously. The best part of the trip was due to the cancellation we got to stay in a 4 star hotel Peerless inn @ kolkatta, which offered us buffet dinner and breakfast. The food in the flight was not upto the mark. It is better to parcel alu parothas or any favourite dish of one’s choice and request them to keep the change. It is better to ensure you seat booking in the front rather than on the wheel portion of the aircraft.

The average costing per day excluding flight fare for two pax works out to Rs 7825 per day for 9 days. ( My best estimate costing will not be more than Rs 3000 incl. sight seeing and breakfast) We had to additionally shell out 14 k for food, shopping tickets and extra travel. I informed Air India with this budget you all can make a huge profit why do you want to engage a private agency for hotel and taxi service. They will end up swiping off all the profits. As it is Air India has entered into the best tie up with hotels and taxi service why depend on private service ? What is your opinion friends on the Air Indiapackage ?

Hint & Clue : Feedback response is a shocker pl guess ?

UPDATE : Air India revises the package cost by almost 22,000 - The claim now that For Lowest LTC fares choose AIR INDIA, what a paradox. Today the package cost is quoted at 79 k plus

The moral of the story is obviously to check out the hotels offered and the sightseeing timings, which will give a clue, on the professional approach of the agency concerned. If the sightseeing points are planned from morning 7 to evening 7 pm it would be an ideal package. This will concide with ideal photographic timing.

Recharge your batteries @ Ooty

Recharging one’s batteries with nature is a blessing in the summer season, just imagine it poured cats and dogs on the 13th April, which happened to be my wife’s birthday. Even the nature does bless who deserve, seems to be an understatement. .

One place I wanted to check out in Ooty very badly, to travel down the memory lane was Fernil Palace. It had etched a permanent memory in my chip because we had a rollicking sales conference in 1984 in the peak of summer. We were shivering during day time due to the chillness despite the borrowed blazers. The 3 day conference was filled with professional agenda and the nights were filled with cocktail and fireworks lit in the sky. One of the best turkey was cooked by TAJ group chef and served as a delicacy, it was polished off within 30 minutes by preying party poopers. It was black & white combo which kept us warm during those nights. .

Today the Maharaja’s palace is taken over by the by the Welcome Group and Mr Fiyaz who is the manager of the property invited us to stay over, with hefty discount on the offer for a client who revisited the property after 25 years. The property has been refurbished and looks like connoisseurs delight. The suites look fabulous and reminiscent of Maharaja’s lifestyle. The tariffs quoted is around 10 K plus tax and he was kind enough to offer me hefty discount. Well it was tempting offer that I would accept in the next visit. .

I was shaken but not stirred by the urgency to reach Ooty from Blore. I clipped at 110 km which may have stretched my vehicles limit. We had a narrow escape of nearly crashing into a loaded truck by virtue of his veering to the left to avoid a bullock cart. Fortune favours the brave, is not just a idiom to be cherished, but even the Lord helped us to survive the accident..

The overall two day trip was a eye opener and telling in terms flexing one’s driving skill and planning the itinerary in a quick and efficient manner, we had the on the hindsight a guide luckily who took us through the meadows and landscape of Cooner like a fleeting look at the pages of racing novel. It was Sridhar s advice which prompted me to hire a guide and Mazhar in between was checking with me as to how I was enjoying the weather and scenery. I only wish how we had a big gang of Msians to enjoy in such a lovely natural settings. But one thing I have realized never to visit during season any tourist destination to enjoy its real beauty. Take time off and visit destinations during off season when you will feel like a monarch, that is what I intend to do during my next visit.





Epilouge

Some people call it as Yorkshire of India, if you ask Geoff Boycott for his comment, he would utter " roubbish, how can you compare Ooty to Yorkshire, where my mom taught me how to play cricket in a defensive manner "

The purpose of writing an annexure was that i went to Ooty to get my car batteries recharged which had gone down very badly due to my accidental switching on the AC while it rested.

Well the beauty of the Ooty which was enhanced by heavy shower cannot be captured by a video camera, nevertheless with amateur skill i have loaded another one with oriental instrumental music background. It is just an experiment to perfect my editing skills.

The everlasting beauty of Ooty we missed when we were young as bachelors, we wasted time in consuming nectar made out of molasses and barley. I am sure the bumble bees will avoid and taste the natural ones on the botanical gardens and Sims park.

Abode of Lord Shiva - Murudeshwar

When the rainy season sets in the konkan coast, it squeals and unleashes the turbulence of a typhoon heralding the onset of monsoon. Nature ‘s fury can only be tamed by the lord Shiva, and true to his spirit we experienced the turbulence beyond compare on the shores of the Arabian sea.

Prolouge

The credit for construction of the temple with the tallest Shiva statue & Gopuram in the world should go the patron R.N. Shetty of the Naveen tiles fame. Murudeswar happens to be native place of the patron. He was of the firm belief that the Lord blesses all the piligrims who worship him with devotion. The old temple built during the vijaynagar era was crumbling for want of renovation.

One day in his dream, the Lord blessed him with a boon that his prosperity will be linked with the renovation of the temple. The renovation work was a stupendous task considering that the temple was located on the sea shore which can be turbulent during the monsoon. So he hunted for the architect of Vivekananda memorial Mr S.K. Acharya. On developing a rapport with the architect through a mutual friend, he convinced him to be a guiding force behind the construction. In 1977 the renovation work began in right earnest with donation being solicited from the Public at large like the Vivekanada memorial. All the materials such as granite were sourced from nearby Shimoga and thirthalli taluk.

The combination 3 decade of experience of R N Shetty and Acharya, with the blessings of the Lord Maradeswar the construction of the temple was completed in 1998. Thereafter the grandiocese plan to emulate the Vivekananda rock memorial in terms of constructing the Tallest Shiva statue and the gopuram was envisoned. The tall gopuram was fully thrown open to the public on 24th April 2009 after a full decade of construction effort.



At 11.15 am on 6/6/09 we reached Murudeswar cross on NH 17 travelling by Rajhamsa bus from Kumta, a distance of 70 km approximately. It was a slight drizzle and we alighted into the waiting auto beckoned by the bus driver. Just as we travelled the drizzle became a downpour, we were lucky to find a cloak room @ VRL roadways counter near Kamat Yatri nivas. We deposited our luggage and wanted to quickly complete the dharshan before 1 pm, because the luggage counter would close by than. Lest we realized that nature would take over and display the fury of Rudra tandav. My wife somehow had an intuition of events to unfold………….she was against visiting the temple in monsoon. Murudeswar can be reached from Mangalore too convinient by train or bus. A convinient passenger train departs Mlore to reach Murudeswar by 10.45 AM and on the return around 5 pm the same train can be boarded from Murdeswar. By bus one can travel upto Bhatkal and take a local bus or get down at the junction Murudeswar cross and catch an auto.

After depositing our luggage, we took a walk across the bridge with the lashing of the wind along with torrential downpour. The waves were pounding the temple premises with gutso, but still it was surmountable, we parked our slippers on the shoe rack with the caretaker missing from the counter…… We entered the gopuram, which is known as Raja gopuram, which raises upto 249 feet according to fact files. But considering the fondness of the patron R.N. Shetty , for no 6 and multiples it could be either 246 or 252 feet. But if one adds the number 249 it totals to 6. The gopuram is considered to be tallest in the world. It consists of 20 storied structure, with 2 lifelike elephants statue guarding the enterance.

As we entered it was pleasant to walk on the rubberized carpet into the temple premises. If one just lifts their head, a life like statue of Lord Shiva measuring 123 feet, which is once again considered to be tallest in the world, literally emerges and fills the devotee into humility. The steel railing is carefully placed at the centre of the staircase considering the nature’s fury. We did not require the support as we entered the temple. We were pleasantly surprised with the unfettered view of the Lord Maradeswara. Priests beckon for conducting special appeasement of the Lord, which is voluntary seva or custom, which is paid form of pooja.





We ignored appeasement, on the hindsight cost me a flutter of a lifetime. We were advised to seek the token for free food or prasadam, which opens @ 12.30 pm and closes sharply @ 1.00 pm. We got the coupon for free food @ 12.05 pm, which meant I had 25 minutes for photography. Well there was two other option one is to sit and admire at temple in the pouring rain or stand in the queue for free food. I chose the third one of trying to photograph foolishly though. First I went on the terrace where no admission board was prominently displayed but I was permitted. I went uptstairs and tried to squeeze my head into an opening, covering my Sony digital camera with make shift polyethene raincoat, I banged my head .........khatakkkkkkkk ......with force on the ceiling. Well singing praise of the lord I proceeded to photograph and videograph the scenary unfolding amidst torrential rainfall.


Again I had 15 minutes remaining, which I thought can be used for purchases of books pertaining to history of the temple and some exclusive postcards. I foolishly handed over the plastic sheet and took the umbrella. I managed to walk down the staircase by holding the steel railings, in between the granite stones were extremely slippery, which I managed to circumvent without any major incident. I entered into precints of the gopuram, my umbrella acted as parachute with typhoonic wind velocity may be measurable @ 90 kmphs approximately. I luckily treaded on to the rubberized carpet, maybe upto 5 feet, with wind ferocity I was drawn uncontrollably on to the granite portion and from thereon for the next 2 minutes, I was only a mute witness to natures fury. As I stepped on the wet granite, my 98 kgs frame slid landing me on my bum with a bath towel cushioning my fall. I was grabbed by fellow devotees in an urge to help a fellow men, suddenly I was lifted off the ground by pairs of helping hands, in the bargain my brand new umbrella was ripped beyond salvage. Luckily lord saved my Camera, which was tucked into my banian with a strap around my shoulder.


bought the books and postcard from the counter and marched back into the temple like wounded soldier in the battlefield, with blood stains on my elbow. My wife was surprised to hear my turmoil on the tarmac of temple tower. The neighbours in the queue certified my experience, stating that I was one of the few lucky piligrims who experienced the toss. After applying band aid we proceeded to have our free lunch. In between I thought I will use my time to shoot some turbulent sea shots from the safety of the window, I aimed and clicked……………..booooooooooooooooom went the sound and alas the flash was down. Maybe the electrical charge of the nature was too overpowering for H3 too handle. I just checked all other functions were ok. I just quickly removed the battery and packed the camera into a dry handkerchief and deposited the same in my wife’s purse. We finished our lunch just 10 minutes short of deadline and proceeded to collect our luggage at the counter.

Alas one more, surprise was in store, one of my slipper was blown into the sea. With one slipper on I marched ahead to find the luggage counter closed for lunch ahead of time. Luckily the lodge owner of Kamat was the owner of the luggage counter, we request him to once again open the counter. He obliged. Now we found to our horror that there were no autos. The errand boy suggested we walk ahead to catch an auto from the stand. Most of the autos had vacated the place due to the fear of being plunged into the sea. We waited helplessly, suddenly we found an auto braving into our shelter as if sent by the Lord. The auto driver was so helpful in finding us a shoe shop. I quickly asked the owner to give me a paragoan slipper as replace for my bata. The driver at last dropped us back to our boarding station, wherein we missed the bus, and we resigned once to the waiting game, which was just 5 minutes, once again the Lord helped us with a comfortable bus ride back to udupi.


We were blessed with continuous rainfall, and the journey went on smooth, except for an oil tanker accident. In the end, we reached Mulki and proceeded towards our hideout without much ado. The moral of the story is that Fortune favours the brave, and lord helps the devotees who determined.

Tribute to Pepper Queen Mirjan Fort

An aroma fills the air with expectation of a bygone era in search of the pepper queen, which symbolized the zenith of trading links with Europeans, Arabs, Persians, Chinese, etc.. The konkan coastal belt served as an export base, with Mirjan serving as one of the micro ports, for all the spices produced in the during the Vijayanagar Era. The vijayanagar empires principal exports were pepper, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, tamarind, turmeric, musk, aloe and precious stones such as diamonds and pearls.

Vasco da Gama arrived with an intention to establish the Portuguese base for trading in India. During his first trip, he docked in Goa, St. Mary’s Isle and reached Kozikode on 20th May 1498. During his stay he gained total knowledge of the produce from the exotic East, and made notes on the weather patterns and returned on august 29th 1498 surveying the entire konkan belt for trading posts. He set sail once again on 12th Feb 1502 with a fleet of warships to coerce the local zamorin into signing a favourable treaty for trading. He unleashed terror by setting ablaze the merchant vessels from Arab countries along with its crew members. Vasco da Gama even though officially was after establishing trade links with India, but his eyes were on the fabled diamond supplies. Remember India was the only diamond producing centre those days.

Mirjan Fort was in all probability built originally by Queen Chennabhairadevi, who belonged to the Tuluva-Salva clan under the tutlege of Vijaynagar kings. Rani Chennabhairavdevi was also known as the Pepper Queen or Raina da Pimenta. Her reign was in conformity with the doctrine of succession “ Aliyasantana “ or Matriarchal , a tradition followed in coastal belt of konkan and Kerala. Her reign was the longest in the history of female domination in the annals of Indian history, from 1552 – 1606. The strong hold of her territory was centered around North and South kanara districts and south Goa. The main harbours were Malpe, Baindoor, Mirjan, Honnavar, Ankola and Karwar.

After the battle of Talikota in 1565, the Pepper queen was constantly fighting battle for survival. During this period she shifted her base from Mirjan Fort to somewhat safe haven in Basadi an isle in the middle of river Sharavathi. Being a jain she was responsible for construction of many basadis in and around barkur and moodbidri area.

Mirjan fort is currently under renovation by the ASI to bring back the original glory to this exquisite fort. The fort was maintained by yearly grant till independence by the British empire. The Fort has been built in an area encompassing of 10 acres. A circular moat except near the enterance surrounds the Fort. In ancient times obviously this was filled with crocs to protect them from attack by the enemies. The water way seemed to have served as transportation of merchandise to the nearest harbour. The presence of the Jain pillar gives a clue to the architect of the Fort, even though all traces of the original builder seem to have been erased by raiding Bahamani sultans. This Fort was conquered by Sharief-ul-mulk the governor of Goa. He seems to have renovated the Fort to symbolize moghul architecture.





A huge durbar hall, along with barracks and market for trading seems to have been well built considering the strategic importance. Majority of the trading activities seem to have occurred outside the Fort premises. The Fort contains many a escape routes which seem to have been well camouflaged through well type construction. The outer walls of the fort have crumbled due to growth of banyan tree roots. They too have well planned escaped routes for the royalty in case of enemy attack. The remains of idols salvaged from the destruction of temple have been kept under a huge tree.


The Mirjan fort is located just 1 km off the NH 17 on the left turn by the side of the fish market @ Mirjan town, which is located 8 kms away from Kumta town enroute to Ankola or Goa. This destination can be reached from Mlore, on the NH 17 highway towards Goa or even Gokarna for that matter. Approximately 200 kms away just away to Kumta town. One can take a convinient train from Mlore and reach Kumta town and take a bus towards Gokarna and get down at Mirjan. From Goa one can get down at Ankola, Gokarna or even Kumta and travel by bus. Bus connectivity from Gokarna is not very frequent.

The Fort is a tribute to the queens heroic effort to ward of invaders at Bay, particularly the Portuguese.
My hunt for the elusive Spicy Pepper queen hideout will continue……………..